Carolina Coastal Cooking

I have been officially banned from the galley while dinner is being prepared.  Rightfully so, as I was heard  saying eeewww  as  Judith sautéed the Carolina shrimp, heads and all, for our shrimp and grits dinner last night. But never have I tasted a more sweet and succulent shrimp!  Tonight we are hosting Herb and Gayle, a couple we first met at the Deep Creek locks, saw their boat in our anchorage a couple of nights ago, have kept in touch by phone, and met again in the marina today.  They are a fun couple and we will enjoy sharing travel stories.  This is the yachting social life.  Time and again, Kev and Judith will see boats and meet folks they have seen in other places.  Imagine the adventures and stories they share!  Judith is preparing "Low Country Boil", a dish served in a large pan in the center of the table, with everyone serving themselves with large spoons.  The boil consists of small red skinned potatos, Old Bay seasoning, Bar  Bequed chicken with Jerk seasoning, chicken apple sausage ,and Carolina shrimp, all grilled by the grill meister Kev before added to the boil.  The side dish is creamy Carolina grits.  I'll be washing the dishes!
 

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24 Hours at sea

As the sun sets we have been six hours at sea - so far a very rough and cold ride.  Winds are blowing steadily at 15 to 20 knots, giving us a choppy sea with 4 - 5 foot waves - and did I mention COLD?  what seems like  many  hours ago we prepared for going to sea by putting on our safety harness - over the overalls and foul weather jacket, that was over the several layers of long underwear, sox, gloves and a hat for warmth.  The safety harness has an inflatable life vest and an electronic locator, and is snapped on a leash as soon as we step out of the cabin.  The leash snaps to jack lines that are installed from bow to stern on both the port and starboard sides.  Another set of jack lines runs in the cockpit.  By now movements are slow and deliberate due to the clothes, restraints and choppy sea.  But there is the upside to all this.  The sunset at sea is always a moment of awe, and the moon rising, only one day waning from full, was even more spectacular.  As the night wore on, the winds subsided and as the sun rose the sea was glassy, adding to the spectacle of the event.

We are now in Charleston, South Carolina, and what a city it is!  Kev and Judith have lived here, and know it well.  Judith and I took a 5 mile walk around this beautiful and historic city yesterday. My next log entry will share what we saw!

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Bridge to Figure 8 Island

The day's journey was from Swansboro to Wrightsville Beach NC. As is often the case, timing the opening of bridges determines the length of time we will be traveling. The charts tell us the opening schedules of the bridges (every hour on the hour, or every hour and half hour) We got lucky with the first two bridges today, had a half hour wait for the third bridge, but missed the fourth bridge opening by three minutes, and had to wait an hour! depending on the current, waiting around a bridge, often with other boats, can be tricky, so it is easier to figure the timing and just slow down, and keep moving forward, than to hurry up and wait. A lesson in living here??

As I am writing this, Kev is studying the weather, tides, and charts for tomorrow's journey. We are hoping to find all elements favorable to go out into the ocean, and shoot down more directly to Charelston. If we go out, I will be "off the air" for a couple of days. stay tuned!

Along the ICW

Ten days and about 300 miles into our journey from Deltaville, MD, we are over half way to Charleston, where I must fly back to the West. Experiencing the South for the first time has been a pure pleasure. There is such history throughout this region. The Southerners are rightfully proud of their history, and diligent in preserving it. White open-shuttered houses with front porches have lined the Intra Coastal Waterway throughout our trip, but every day seems to bring us into warmer weather by about two degrees. As I write this, I am wearing a long-sleeved shirt, but I am barefooted. Compare that with two pairs of sox, rain boots, full foul weather gear and multiple layers beneath, and you get an idea of how the climate has changed as we journey south.

Southern hospitality, however, remains consistent throughout, and is such a joy to experience.
Tonight, after arriving in Swansboro, NC, we walked though the town, entering houses that have seen the Revolutionary war, the War of 1812, and the Civil War. Now housing art galleries, craft stores, book stores, etc., one can enter the two worlds of today and yesterday. Add the hospitality of the shopkeepers, and you are experiencing the best of the South.

Sunset over Beaufort Harbor

Beaufort is a wonderful old, yet well preserved, seaport town. As a safe harbor for both boaters on the ICW and those coming in from the sea, It is at one a very popular anchorage and tie up location, and a wonderful place to eat out and shop for nautical items. Marinas usually have one or more free cars that boaters can borrow for an hour, which was just enough time for Judith to do some banking, and for us to make a stop at the fresh fish market, to buy what was fresh. Yesterday's purchase was a trigger fish, at only $4.50 a pound. For that price we photographed the fish, got a demonstration of how the "trigger" worked to release and lower a mean-looking spike on the fish's back, got detailed instructions as to how to cook it, and watched him filet the fish and bag it in ice. Such a deal! The best deal, however was how wonderful it tasted after Judith followed the cooking instructions and spun her own cooking magic on that fish. Out of this world! Our dinner was topped off by this beautiful sunset!

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Liz enjoying the Locals at "The Bean"

The Coffee Bean

Kev, Judith, and I are sitting in this  gathering place, thoroughly enjoying the camaraderie of all the locals as they walk or ride their bicycles to meet and greet and catch up on the news.  We are by no means ignored - rather welcomed by everyone, asked where we are from and where we are headed, and made to feel very much a part of the community.  The "Bean" is used as the example if the 9 feet of water that rushed in with Hurricane Irene.  Came up to the middle of the door handle on the Bean, we've been told several times.  

Looks like a great day for sailing.  The weather report says "abundant sunshine" - a first!  Off to Beaufort NC today!

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Oriental, NC

We had a good passage today, with a good wind and motor sailing with the Genoa sail up most of the way. the sailboat ahead of us in this picture is from Basel, Switzerland! One of the best
Parts of sailing is meeting all the interesting people and sharing tales of their travels and their traveling plans, Today's sail took us into the heart of the destruction from Hurricane Irene, which passed through here in late August of this year. All along the way we have been seeing uprooted trees, some that had fallen on houses, flattening them! many houses are boarded up, or just destroyed. Here in Oriental, the marina is opened, but there is still no electricity, and about 1/3 of the finger docks are missing, so those slips cannot be used. In town, the water rose 9 feet - it rushed in, stayed for three hours, then was sucked out again, but the damage left behind was incredible. FEMA brought in trailers to the displaced families to stay in, and many are still living in them while they repair and rebuild. Along our way today we passed by a town called Hobucken, NC, where there is a passage out to the ocean. There, a wall of water 14 feet high rushed in on the land and then was swept out again. Lots of "For Sale" signs in front of beautiful old waterfront houses here!

Tonight's fare

Fresh fish caught this morning.

Caught Today

Dinner tonight was this Spanish Mackerel Caught by this Bellhaven fisherman, who goes out early, and sells his days catch in his fish market.  Judith spun her magic, and we enjoyed this fish for dinner, with enough left over for fish tacos tomorrow.  Judith added a wonderful red cabbage braised in Apple cider with capers, to make a most memorable meal.  the next  picture will show our on- board fare for the evening . 

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Begin forwarded message:

From: "Judith Paixao" <judith@commandmediacorp.com>
To: "Liz Meyer" <lizmeyer920@hotmail.com>
Subject: photos - 2 Belhaven fisherman with fresh spanish mackerel from Swan Point NC

Elizabeth City to Belhaven, NC

We awakened to the sound of rain - a wonderful sound when you can snuggle down and spend the day reading - but today's travel  plan had us pulling anchor at daybreak to make it through the Alligator River/Pungo River canal.  The goal was to get into a marina in Belhaven where we will lay over a day to wait for some gale-force winds to blow through tomorrow.

It rained all day today, and going through the canal of the Cypress Swamp was much more dismal than going through the Dismal Swamp two days before.  We are tied at a beautiful marina, the first to open back up following the devastating effects of Hurricane Irene, which flooded the town 47 inches above street level.  Most of the town is closed, as the stores all needed to be drained and repaired.  We can still see the water line of the flood on some of the buildings.

Southern hospitality overflows!  We peeked into a large old store, wondering what it might have been, and the lady working on renovating it came to the door, gave us the history of the building (which I gathered her family had always owned),  described the damage of the hurricane, and her dreams for starting over.  Where are y'all from?  She quiried , and  after explaining we were off a boat, she offered to loan us her car to drive around.

We are looking forward to eating out tonight, even though it would be difficult to beat Judith's cooking.  it is always fun to eat where the locals do, and try the local food.

Looks like tomorrow will be the day to hunker down and read in bed! 
 

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Elizabeth City

Our cab driver greeted us warmly saying in his very North Carolina drawl, "I can see by your happy faces that you are loved by the Lord!" Indeed, it was a love fest for God all the way across town to the grocery store for provisions. Mr. Riddick ran a quick errand (to take Miss Evie to Senior Day Care) then was back to pick us up. On the way back to the marina, Judith asked if he could drive us through the old part of town so that Mz Liz, from California and visiting the South for the first time, could see the beautiful homes of the Old South. Beautiful they are! What remarkable remnants of earlier days and Southern living.

Yesterday, as we tied up at the free marina, we enjoyed a lawn outlined with beautiful rose bushes, still in full bloom. A granite memorial explains the history and honors the founder of the Rose Buddies, who welcome boaters to their city with a rose for the first mate, and often a wine and cheese party. After the founder died in his 90's, the town transplanted his rose bushes down at the marina, and the Chamber of Commerce has continued this 40 year tradition. Boaters leave this harbor of hospitality with fond memories.

We are in the Alligator River right now, and will be anchoring out, to get an early start for tomorrow's travel. We will be entering the Alligator River/Pongo Canal, which is very narrow and 20 miles long. There are no tie-ups or anchorages available until we come out on the Pongo River side. Weather has been beautiful all day, but high winds are expected tomorrow.

Elizabeth City

Our cab driver greeted us warmly saying in his very North Carolina drawl, "I can see by your happy faces that you are loved by the Lord!" Indeed, it was a love fest for God all the way across town to the grocery store for provisions. Mr. Riddick ran a quick errand (to take Miss Evie to Senior Day Care) then was back to pick us up. On the way back to the marina, Judith asked if he could drive us through the old part of town so that Mz Liz, from California and visiting the South for the first time, could see the beautiful homes of the Old South. Beautiful they are! What remarkable remnants of earlier days and Southern living.

Yesterday, as we tied up at the free marina, we enjoyed a lawn outlined with beautiful rose bushes, still in full bloom. A granite memorial explains the history and honors the founder of the Rose Buddies, who welcome boaters to their city with a rose for the first mate, and often a wine and cheese party. After the founder died in his 90's, the town transplanted his rose bushes down at the marina, and the Chamber of Commerce has continued this 40 year tradition. Boaters leave this harbor of hospitality with fond memories.

We are in the Alligator River right now, and will be anchoring out, to get an early start for tomorrow's travel. We will be entering the Alligator River/Pongo Canal, which is very narrow and 20 miles long. There are no tie-ups or anchorages available until we come out on the Pongo River side. Weather has been beautiful all day, but high winds are expected tomorrow.

Fall Colors on Deep Creek.

Deep Creek Lock, Chesepeake, VA.

And that, Ma'am, is called Southern Hospitality. Robert says to me with a touch of a salute as we begin to pull out of Deep Creek Lock.  He is referring to the most delightful past hour we have spent as the water was rising in the lock.  For starters he and his dog met us as we entered the lock, welcomed us to his lock and handily assisted in tying us up, As the lock began to fill, he casually asked if we happened to have a conch shell as a horn. of course Kev and Judith did, so we rummaged around to find it.  Something tells me you can blow one well !   I said, and he modestly offered to blow our conch.  After being treated to an unequalled conch performance , and a demonstration on how to trill on the conch, as well as make it sound at higher and lower pitches, He took out his own conch, and entertained us with his talent. Following our musical entertainment, Robert proceeded to give us a fascinating history of this lock and waterway which dates all the way back to George Washington.  The Dismal Swamp played a key role in the Civil War, as an essential water route.  He directed us to the beautiful free dock we are tied up at tonight, and said he is also the Deep Creek Bridge Master, and the bridge will open at 9:30 in the morning.  He invited us to tie up at the bridge when we get there, come in to have some coffee and Danish, while he does the first lock passage, then he will come to answer any more questions about the area we may have.  By now, he knew I was from Southern California, and as we thanked him, he responded, And that Ma'am, is Southern Hospitality.

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Viagem in front of a warship

Right across the river from where we are tied is the Norfolk Naval yard. We passed several aircraft carriers at close range yesterday. We tried to imagine being a jet pilot and landing on such a seemingly short runway!